Ijust wanted to walk. The weather was looking good and it seemed as
though I would have a spare day with nothing in particular planned and
nowhere in particular to be. So, I thought I would go for a walk.
Usually, I would already have walks planned for such an occasion but
I needed something local and the only ones I had looked at recently were
multi-day walks.
I logged into Viewranger and started to look for inspiration. For
some unknown reason, I kept finding my mouse pointer hovering over the
Canterbury area. I was drawn to the North Downs Way and was intrigued to
find that, as I followed the route on the map away from Canterbury, the
name of the path kept changing to “Pilgrim’s Way” and back again.
Occasionally, the two paths would separate but they would never be
more than a few meters away from each other. I followed the path, on the
map, all the way up to Kit’s Coty Burial Chamber near Blue Bell Hill
before I stopped.
A quick search of the internet proved very useful. Pilgrims had been
walking this route since the murder of Thomas Becket, also known as
Saint Thomas of Canterbury and Thomas à Becket, in 1170. Becket was the
Archbishop of Canterbury and was murdered in the Cathedral there by
followers of King Henry II.
Pilgrims walk from Southwark Cathedral to the Shrine of Thomas Becket
in Canterbury Cathedral and it was this pilgrimage that was the backdrop
for Geoffrey Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales.
I have always wanted to do the Camino Frances to Santiago de
Compostela but, like many, can’t take the time off work needed to
complete the 500-mile route. But now I have found a mini Camino on my
own doorstep that I can complete in just a few hours. How could I not do
this?
I drove to Wye and parked by the train station and began my walk.
Almost immediately a man in a Land Rover pulled up next to me and asked
me if I was a pilgrim. I wanted to say yes! But I said no and he drove
off leaving me wondering why he had stopped in the first place and what
would have happened if I had said yes.
The sun was shining. It was warm but not too warm and the trail took
me quickly out into the countryside and it was good to be out
walking.
At Boughton Aluph there was a gate on the path and I noticed a number
of people milling about by the gate and scurrying around a number of
cars and vans parked in a small car park. As I cleared the hedge I could
see a large church and assumed it was some sort of village fate or
similar.
I spoke to a woman in the churchyard who explained that all the
vehicles and people were there to support the Pilgrims who were walking
that day.
Apparently, the Pilgrims had started four days ago from St
Martin-in-the-Fields, London and were following Chaucer’s footsteps on
an annual Pilgrimage. I hadn’t seen any of the Pilgrims but it seems
they were on their way.
During the afternoon, as I walked along the path, I noticed a few
signs that would either say “Pilgrim’s Way” or show the symbol of the
scallop shell and it made me think about what it must have been like to
walk this way 850 years ago as Chaucer had.
The Canterbury Tales tells the stories, or tales, of various pilgrims
on their way to Canterbury but it also highlights the diversity of the
pilgrims themselves. Different people from different backgrounds all
making the same pilgrimage for different reasons.
Perhaps, after all this time, things are not so different after
all.
The Route
Distance : 14 Miles
I parked on the road near the Train Station at Wye and followed the
North Downs Way to Canterbury before catching the train back to Wye.
There are not many facilities on the route but there is a pub at
Chilham. If you need accommodation in Canterbury then look up Kipps
Hostel.