It was Susan’s idea, the free walking tour, she had done them in the
past and said that they were a great way to become orientated when you
arrive in a new city. To be honest, I was a little sceptical. I didn’t
like the idea of being herded around like sheep and being given the hard
sell at every turn, but Susan convinced me, telling me that the tour
would be free and that we would only have to tip the guide what we
thought the tour was worth. If we hated it, we could bail and head off
on our own.
Susan booked the tour with a company called Sandemans, and all we had
to do was print off a copy of the booking and meet the guide at the
designated meeting point at the right time on the right date.
For us, the meeting point was the Jaffa Gate, one of eight gates in
Jerusalem’s Old City walls.
We left our hotel and made our way down Jaffa Street to Tzahal
Square, where we had the first views of the magnificent Old City walls.
I couldn’t help but think that people had stood here and gazed upon
these walls for thousands of years. Walls that protect once of the most
historically important, and fought over, places in human history. A
history that, until now, I had only read about. I had no idea how wrong
I was!
At the allotted time we reached the Jaffa Gate and quickly found the
Sandemans guides standing under their trademark red umbrellas. There
were quite a few of them, and they were going around sticking coloured
dots on the growing number of people surrounding them.
For a quarter of an hour or more, the crowd kept growing, more and
more people scrabbling to reach the guides and get the coloured dots
stuck on their jackets. I grew impatient and a little bored. I got that
‘sheep’ feeling and was all for leaving when a man with an American
accent shepherded the blue dots over to one side.
Our Shepard wore a leather jacket, a fedora and had a satchel hanging
at his hip and was obviously working the Indiana Jones vibe. His name
was Shimon and, as it turns out, he was an excellent guide!
Shimon led us through the Jaffa Gate and gathered us beneath the
Tower of David. There he took a scroll from his satchel which contained
an easy to digest timeline of key events and in just under ten minutes
flat, he took us through the abridged history of Jerusalem.
The Walls I had admired less than an hour ago, believing that they
had seen the reign of King David and King Solomon, the rule of Alexander
the Great, Pompey, Herod and Pontius Pilate and not to mention all of
the biblical events associated with this ancient city, had only been
built in the sixteenth century on the orders of Sultan Suleiman I, ruler
of the Ottoman Empire.
The walls dating back to the times of King David and Soloman were
destroyed, along with the city of Jerusalem, in 586 BC by Nebuchadnezzar
of Babylon and have been rebuilt and destroyed many times over since
then.
In fact, for nearly three centuries during the middle ages, Jerusalem
had no walls at all and lay completely unprotected when the nephew of
Saladin had them torn down fearing that the Crusaders would benefit if
they managed to reconquer the city.
For almost two hours, Shimon expertly led our group around the narrow
streets of Jerusalem, taking in all four of the Old City’s quarters. He
showed us views of every historic site, even if some of them were a
little far away, and talked us through every key historical and
religious event. Regardless as to which religion, Shimon provided all of
the necessary facts, dates, legends and stories in a clear and unbiased
manner.
I found that Shimon was both entertaining and engaging and well worth
the ‘suggested’ tip at the end of the tour.
If you have never done a free walking tour before and are considering
joining one, then it is worth doing some research on TripAdvisor first
to see what other people enjoyed and recommend.
I certainly recommend the tour of the Old City with Shimon.