Charlestown to Fowey

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

WALK

CORNWALL

Charlestown to Fowey

Wednesday 21 March 2012

Ileft the house just after 06:30 and walked the three miles to the train station in the early morning sun. The weather forecast was for cloud and rain across the South West but so far the clouds had been slow to arrive.

I caught the Penzance train from Newton Abbot and arrived in St Austell shortly after 09:00 only to find that the clouds had already beaten me there. I had planned a two day trip with accommodation in St Austell but I would have to carry everything with me on both days as I had decided to leave the car at home and use the train – the return ticket was only £12.

My objective today was to walk from Charlestown to Fowey but first I had to walk the two miles to Charlestown. The train station was perched above the town and with good views over St Austell Bay.

Although now cloudy, Charelstown was an interesting place mainly because of the ships in the harbour. I lingered here a while, more than I would usually, soaking up the atmosphere before making my way up the hill and along the South West Coast Path.

At Carlyon Bay, there is a long beach spoilt by the partly demolished remains of the Cornwall Coliseum complex. I think the complex has been shut since 1999 and sits at the centre of a long-running planning and development dispute. For the SWCP walker, it is an awful sight and is quickly followed by an awful section – Par.

From Spit Point you have to head inland and go behind the China Clay works at Par. I opted to follow the official route through the St Andrews Nature Reserve although to me this looked more like a caravan park than a nature reserve and it would probably have been quicker just to stay on the road to Polmear.

The path to Polkerris and the view down over the harbour were a welcome change from the decay and industry that had featured in the walk so far – a return to normality for the SWCP walker and the sun was making an appearance which helped to lift my spirits a little.

At Polkerris there was a Pub and a Cafe but as I had only just found normality I didn’t want to stop and instead continued on to Gribbin Head where I sat and had my lunch in the shadow of Gribbin Tower. A 26m daymark erected by Trinity House in 1832.

I rested for a short while and then continued along the path to Polridmouth and eventually Fowey where I made my way to the Town Quay so that I could see where I would need to catch the ferry the following day.

In the middle of the estuary I could see a ship which I later discovered was a replica of the Mathew.

I purchased some supplies and then made my way up the steep hill to the bus stop to catch a bus back to St Austell and my accommodation. Unfortunately I arrived at the bus stop just in time to see a bus pulling away. Fortunately the bus stop is right opposite a pub so I didn’t have to stand there and wait for the next one!

Distance

SWCP – 10 Miles

Extra – 8 Miles

The view across Par Sands towards the China Clay Harbour

Polridmouth Beach with Gribbin Tower in the distance taken from Lankelly Cliff

Fowey and Polruan form St Catherine’s Point

The Matthew with Polruan in the background taken from Fowey Town Quay

David Welch – View Profile

Are you tired of being stuck in the office? Bored of being chained to a desk? Counting down the days until retirement?

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